Bali Must-Visit Temples for True Bali Spiritual Travel

Not the Beaches: It's the Temples!
The first things about Bali that enchanted the likes of Belgian Prince-painter Adrian Jean Le Mayeur in the 1930s were the island's religion and culture. While indeed the beaches and nightlife here could be irresistible, an ideal Balinese experience starts with the island's Pura Kahyangan Jagat, or the nine directional Balinese Hindu temples.

These are the sacred places, the holiest temples, that are the tangible foundations of Balinese Hinduism. The wonderful religious and cultural activities that we often see in many publications about Bali are linked with these temples.

The beaches and nightlife are, in fact, came later with the progress of hospitality industry. Is it curious and against your crowd-driven image about the island? Read on.

Bali, Very Concisely
Even for their fellow Indonesians, Balinese and their islands are unique. While the larger parts of Indonesia are mostly Muslim, Bali is dominated by Hindu believers. Separated by the narrow Bali Strait from the turmoil-laden Java in the west and by the Lombok Strait from Muslim-dominated Lombok Island in the east, Bali is safely and securely living its own life guided by Hinduism - a Hindu sect which is called Balinese Hinduism that for the most parts different from Hinduism in India.
Of course Bali is not a perpetual peace. Natives here have their own problems and conflicts too. Moreover the Balinese Hinduism as a religion has plenty of variants. But, unlike in the other parts of Indonesia, conflicts in the island never grow into an overwhelming scale. There is always an agreed-by-all method to bring back the balance, whether using the state-sponsored solutions such as police force or, more effectively, through the negotiation guided by the local tradition and custom.
One thing is sure: for Balinese, to smile to other people is not an act of flattery, or a forced action, or a tourism-driven disguise. Smiling to others - foreigners, expatriates, tourists, fellow Balinese or Indonesian - is in their bloods, inherited from their ancestors through their mother's milk and religion-driven norms of conducts.

Religion: Balinese Hinduism (Briefly)
Balinese Hinduism is based on the basic concept called Trimurti. In this, the Supreme God (Sang Hyang Widhi Wasya) is believed to manifest in three main manifestations called batara (literally means "god"). They are Brahma (the god of creation), Vishnu (the god of raiser), and Shiva (the god of fusion). Under these three gods, there are many "lower" manifestations although they are also called batara. The gods could manifest in many forms and shapes, including sculptures.
Balinese Hinduism is unlike Hinduism we see in India. Hinduism in the island is mixed with the native belief. This belief, animistic and dynamism in nature, existed before the full inception of Hinduism in around fourteenth century following the crumbling of Majapahit Empire in East Java. The most obvious mixture is the respect paid toward the elders deceased years ago. This respect is given rituals that have been deeply adopted into the current religious practices, so deep is the adoption that they are inseparable from all religious practices. Mortals who achieved great deeds are also able to reach the level of gods whom are also praised.

A Balinese Hindu believes that universe is a balance resulted from the interaction between contradictory elements. As such, believer sees the world as a constant struggle between good and evil. That is why a Balinese acknowledges and tolerates black magic (the evil) and white magic (the good). Balinese Hinduism also teaches about reincarnation and the possibility for a believer to reach moksha (free from the circle of reincarnation). Religious teachings constitute customs and tradition hence religion, customs and tradition in Bali are inseparable.
Believers praise the gods and pay offerings anywhere: in house, in the streets, in the rivers, in the fields and so on. However, the members of the community center their religious ceremony in temples or pura. Considering that religion, customs and tradition are integrated, thus pura functions not only as a religious center but also a social center. A custom village community has at least three temples, each dedicated for the three main gods. They are called, respectively, Puseh (for Brahma), Desa (for Vishnu), and Dalem (for Shiva).

Pura Kahyangan Jagat: The Nine Directional Temples
A temple is a place where the gods perform direct interaction with the mortals. Literally, there are thousands of temples throughout the island. This is true if we take into account the small shrines in houses, intersections of streets, rice fields (note that we can always find a small shrine at the intersections of dikes between rice fields), offices, rivers, beaches, and even accommodation places like hotels, villas and resorts (you can always smell incense in the air in these places).

A custom village, which does not necessarily covers the same area as the "modern" village created as an administrative entity by the Indonesian government, has to have three main, biggest temples, namely Pura Puseh, Pura Desa, and Pura Dalem (remember the module above?). However, these temples cover only the inhabitants of a custom village. Balinese Hinduism teaches that there are nine biggest and important temples in the island that cover the entire island and its inhabitants. These are called Pura Kahyangan Jagat or Pura Dewa Nawa Sanga, the Nine Directional Temples.

The nine directional temples are located in auspicious and sometimes difficult locations such as the slopes of a volcano, the tip of a riff, and the shore of a lake. Basically, they protect the island from the evils spirits that come from outside of the island. However, recent religion interpretation says that the directional temples are not only these nine temples and the area protected is not only the Bali Island. It says that the directional temples exist on all around the planet and even in the outer space, nebula, stars, galaxies, and black holes.

In the module below you will find details on each of these nine directional temples (according to the old interpretation which is still believed by the majority of believers). As most of tourists and travelers stay at Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Canggu and Tanah Lot, I imagine that we start our pilgrimage from one of these southwestern coast tourist hubs, moving to the east through the central region while the sun rises and first see Pura Luhur Batukaru on the slopes of Mount Batukaru. We then go back to the west through the southern coast, following the descending sun, until we arrive at Pura Luhur Uluwatu where the sunset view is simply unforgettable.

Note: There are many interpretations about the main temples in Bali. Another popular interpretation is Sad Kahyangan, which states that there are six most important temples. While also accepting this interpretation, the majority of Balinese people tend to adhere to the interpretation resulted in the notion about Pura Kahyangan Jagat.

Pura Luhur Batukaru
Southern Slopes of Mount Batukaru, Central Bali
Pura Luhur Batukaru is the royal temple of the Tabanan dysnasty, meaning that it is in this temple that the kings of Tabanan Kingdom perform their formal ceremonies. The temple is located on the foot of Mount Batukaru, about 23 km north to Tababan. Pura Luhur Batukaru is dedicated for the deities of mountains and lake. It protects the island from evil spirits coming from west.
Pura Luhur Batukaru was founded in the eleventh century by Mpu Kuturan, who also founded the other nine directional temples. Just like the other temples in the island, Pura Luhur Batukaru also plays an important part in history. King Buleleng attacked the temple in 1604. Myth says that the attackers were driven back by millions of bees that guarded the temple. It was not rebuilt until 1959 and prior to this, believers prayed and paid their homage to the gods in the ruin of the temple.
When you get there, be ready with the mist and rain as the volcano is one of the areas with the highest rainfall in the island.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan
Bratan Lake, Bedugul, Central Highlands
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is one of the most photographed objects in Bali due to its wonderful location. It is situated at the western banks of the Bratan Lake in Bedugul, Central Highlands. The lake is a source of irrigation for many a rice fields on the lower region.
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is dedicated to the goddess of the lake, namely Dewi Ulun Danu Bratan. Founded in 1633, it protects Bali Islands from the evil spirits coming from north.
When you get there, be ready with the cooler air that sometimes can be chilly. If you continue to the north, to the direction of Buleleng, and you travel at night, be careful as heavy smoke-like cloud could block your vision.

Pura Ulun Danu Batur
Kintamani, Eastern Highlands
Just like Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, Pura Ulun Danu Batur is also situated on the banks of an inland lake, namely Batur Lake. The temple is considered the second holiest temple among the nine directional temples, after Pura Besakih.

Although the current temple is founded only in 1926, prior to that, there has been age old temple bearing the same name, situated in the caldera at the foot of Mount Batur. In 1926, the active volcano erupted and destroyed the original temple. The temple was rebuilt in the same year but the location was moved higher onto the current location.
It is dedicated to the Dewi Ulun Danu Batur, or the goddess of the Lake Batur.

Pura Lempuyang
Slopes of Mount Lempuyang, Amlapura, East Bali
Pura Lempuyang Luhur protects the island from evil spirits coming from the east. Located at the slopes of the Mount Agung, East Bali, it is remarkable for its 1700 stone steps. Balinese Hinduism believers regard that the god Genijaya dwells in the temple.
Although the temple is remarkable for its architecture and location, it is relatively out of the mainstream tourism route. As such, public transportation can be difficult most of the times. The best way to reach the temple is driving yourself or rent a car (with a driver, to prevent you from lost in the intricate roads of the area).

From here, one can also view the great Mount Agung. If you have strong lungs, you should try the other climbing stone steps. Ninety-minutes climb and you will reach the highest point of the Mount Lempuyang from where you can view more spectacular views.

Pura Pasar Agung
Southern Slopes of Mount Agung, East Bali
Although nested on the same volcano as the popular Pura Besakih, Pura Pasar Agung is not much known by outsiders due to the difficult route for reaching the temple complex. The temple is situated on the southern slopes of Mount Agung and it is usually a landmark for trekkers and mountaineers. However, Balinese Hindu believers consider the temple as the protector of the island.
When you reach this temple, be ready with the mist and rain. When the clouds get away, the sun can be oppressive so you should wear at least a hat to protect your head.

Pura Besakih
Western Slopes of Mount Agung, East Bali
Pura Besakih is the most important of the nine directional temples. That is why it is also called Mother Temple of Besakih. The largest and the holiest temple in the island, it is situated on the western slopes of Mount Agung and has been in the tourist' route for years hence it is very popular among travelers.
Founded in fourteenth century, Pura Besakih is actually a complex of temples and shrines. In total, there are twenty two temples in the complex. The arrangement of the temples is so sophisticated, representing mortal's journey to reach the higher essence of being. Thus, the higher a person gets into one parts of the complex, the closer one gets to the Mount Agung that is considered sacred.
In 1963, the majestic Mount Agung erupted and killed 1,700 people. Pura Besakih was also threatened. However it was not collapsed at all. The lava flowed outside the complex just a few meters away. Balinese Hinduism believers regard this as miracle and a sign that the gods wanted to show their power but not destroy the temple dedicated for them.

Pura Goa Lawah
On the Main Road Near Padangbai, East Bali
If Batman ever heard about Pura Goa Lawah, he will be glad because bats are considered sacred and protected in this cave temple. Pura Goa Lawah is located nine km east of Klungkung. From here, we can have unobstructed view of the Indian Ocean and Nisa Penida Island at the south.
The temple is founded by Empu Kuturan in 1007. There is a might dragon dwelling inside the cave, Naga Basuki. He is the caretaker of the equilibrium of the earth.

The cave starts at the foot of a rocky cliff. People believe that the cave continues to the northwest until reaching a point somewhere in the base of Mount Agung. Others say the cave runs until reaching Pura Besakih complex, about 30 km away.

Legend says that in the past, the rightful descendent of Mengwi kings should enter the cave. He then should emerge at Besakih. Now, it is entirely forbidden to enter the cave except for strong reasons.
However, cave mapping has been performed and revealed the wonderful environment inside the cave.

Pura Masceti
On the South Coast, Ketewel
Although located near to the shore of the Indian Ocean, Pura Masceti is a temple dedicated for the god Vishnu and his Sakti (couple), Devi Sri, the goddess that raises paddy. Thus it is actually an agricultural temple.

However, due to the fact that rice fields in Bali can even stretch to the shore, it is common to find temples such as Pura Masceti - founded near to the shore of the ocean. Although the main pilgrimages to the temple are done by Balinese farmers, the temple is also the place where balian, or Balinese magician, seek for their power and medicine knowledge.

Masceti comes from two words, namely Mas (light) and Ceti (moving in and out). Legend says that Empu Dwijendera, a Javanese sage, saw light in the temple when traveling in the area. He then set to offer prayer for the gods but was prevented by Ida Batara Masceti whom dwells in the temple as Dwijendra would soon reached moksa.



Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Uluwatu, the Bukit Peninsula
Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of the icons of Bali. You probably have seen the picture of the temple in brochures, Websites, and postcards about Bali. It is indeed picturesque.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu is situated at the southernmost tip of a high cliff at Pecatu Village, Kuta Sub-District, Badung Regency. Balinese believes that Empu Kuturan, the Javanese sage that built the foundation of the current Balinese religion and culture, reached his moksha here.
In Balinese world of view, Pura Luhur Uluwatu stands face to face with the other temples, namely Pura Andakasa, Pura Batur and Pura Besakih. That is why the temple is considered the right place to pledge for harmonious arrangement of life.

Even if the history and religious teachings about Pura Luhur Uluwatu are too sophisticated, you would never miss the breathtaking view of the temple during sunset. You could visit those Temples using a Bali tour or car hire in Bali with driver service then arrange your itinerary with them.

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